Signs of spring: Daylight saving time. Tulips. Birdsong. Artichokes. Asparagus.
Although artichokes are my favorite, asparagus is more approachable, easier to prep, eat and clean.
So, where to start. At the market, choose firm, uniform green and tightly closed tips. Pencil-thin stalks are great, but fat asparagus is a revelation, especially when baked under a cloud of buttery parmesan cheese.
Store it in the vegetable drawer. Experts say no longer than 24 hours, but I’ve stretched that another 24 on occasion. No longer. Buds separate and wilt. I store it upright in a tall glass with a small amount of water to keep it hydrated, and preserve the buds’ texture. Splayed tops are just plain ugly to the eye and the palate.
To ready the veggie, rinse thoroughly in a colander under cool running water. Then trim, bending each stalk: it will break naturally at just the right point. (Thick asparagus benefits from a few swipes of a vegetable peeler.) You can freeze the tougher stems in plastic bags, but however many times I do this, I just throw them out in the end.
Time to cook. First, set a large bowl of ice water right by the stove. Fill a skillet halfway with water and bring it to a mad, rolling boil. Add the asparagus. Let the water return to a boil; cook until the color brightens. This takes only a few minutes, depending on the thickness of the stalks. Take one out and bite into it. Asparagus should be al dente, tender with a bit of firmness at the center, not droopy. Use a large, slotted spoon to fish them out of the pot, and put them directly into the ice water to preserve the color. Using tongs, remove the stalks to paper towels and roll gently to dry. Set aside until time to finish by warming with butter in that same skillet. Ready.
Asparagus has an affinity for tarragon. Also, for lemon, prosciutto, bacon, eggs and cheese. Any of these, alone or in combination, raise the vegetable to new heights. In a vintage move, pile cooked asparagus on toast and top with a poached egg, a fresh breeze after a winter of avocado toast. Or simply shower a heap of cooked asparagus with hot crumbled bacon and hard-cooked egg yolk. Or substitute fresh lemon zest.
It’s totally acceptable to use fingers to pick up naked asparagus. (Even the snobbiest of food snobs will acknowledge this.) I found this to encourage kids who think they’re getting away with something.
That’s the basics. Time to move on.
For a starter or a side dish, make a vinaigrette. (Olive oil, wine vinegar, mustard and salt whisked together according to your taste.) Then toss it with cooked asparagus, still warm. The vegetable will absorb it. Sprinkle chopped pimientos over the top.
The next level: Thaw and roll out frozen puff pastry sheets according to the package directions. Spread thinly sliced prosciutto with whipped cream cheese, bundle three thin (par-cooked) spears together and wrap in prosciutto. (The cream cheese holds it all together.) Now wrap a square of pastry around each bundle and bake, according to package directions.
And still more: I wish I could list so many more recipes for asparagus omelets, risottos, frittatas or salads with snap peas and fennel, but you get the drift.
— Asparagus-orzo salad tossed with bright chopped vegetables – radish slices, snipped chives, thinly sliced fennel, baby carrots, and red onion with grated lemon zest and home whisked dressing. (Experiment with olive oil, vinegar, lemon juice, mustard, etc. -you’ll be proud of your accomplishment.)
— Baked asparagus. (For thick asparagus only.) Spread the bottom of a large ceramic baking dish with a thin layer of olive oil. Then add parboiled asparagus in a single layer, stalks touching, and sprinkle parmesan cheese over the top. Okay, blanket it – it’s even better! A drizzle of melted butter and a 350F oven finishes the job. Keep an eye out until the cheese melts so it doesn’t burn.
And the challenge:
Cream of asparagus soup
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
Use fresh grated lemon zest or tarragon leaves as seasoning, added near the end of cooking to release the flavor.
For a smooth soup, treat the stalks to a few hearty swipes of a vegetable peeler before cooking.
1 medium size sweet onion, e.g. Vidalia, chopped (some cooks use 2 or 3 onions)
1 large baking potato, peeled and cut into 2-inch pieces
1 stick unsalted butter
1 tablespoon olive oil (nothing fancy, 100% is fine)
4 to 6 cups chicken stock (boxed is okay)
2 pounds asparagus, tips separated from stalk (save both)
½ cup half-and-half
Zest of 1 lemon, optional
Salt, pepper to taste
— Melt butter and olive oil in a soup pot. Add onions and potato and cook, slowly, gently, until tender and golden. Be careful not to burn or brown.
— Add chicken stock and bring to a boil.
— Bend and break the stalks, discarding the very tough ends. Chop them into small pieces. Add to the pot. Simmer at least 30 minutes until the asparagus is tender.
— Now is the time to get out that immersion (or stick) blender. Then puree it right in the pot. (I find this easier to clean up than a food processor and there’s no need to be concerned that hot soup will explode through the feed tube).
— Continue to simmer gently until the soup is as creamy as you like. Stir in the half-and-half.
— In a skillet, warm the asparagus tips. Add them to the pot, setting some aside for garnish. Stir and warm the whole. Ladle the soup into bowls. Shower with extra asparagus tips and lemon zest.
Linda Bassett lived in Marblehead for years and has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.
Linda Bassett
Marblehead resident Linda Bassett has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.