I like to keep my refrigerator door shelves orderly. Nothing irks me like sticky bottles and jars of condiments and pickles haphazardly arranged. I keep a single shelf for “fixings” for burgers, hot dogs or sandwiches — mustard, relish, ketchup, mayo, pickles, olives. I group jams, jellies, etc. with similar ingredients. On another shelf, I keep soft drinks and bubbly water. No bottled salad dressings: I create mine on the spot. And space for my Diet Coke.
Some orphan jars and bottles get pushed to corners — e.g. bottles with a few anchovies in cloudy oil, or capers in brine. I’m always on the lookout for recipes that can benefit from their umami, that nebulous ingredient that gives food extra richness.
An anchovy is the secret ingredient in mozzarella in carozza, a mozzarella sandwich pan-fried in olive oil. Tuck an anchovy deep into the center before closing the sandwich. (Capers work here, too.) I make them in miniature, cutting the crusts off the bread, then cutting into triangles. Great with a Limoncello spritz.
In another use of these stray ingredients, I often heighten the flavor of lemon chicken with anchovies and capers.
MOZZARELLA IN CAROZZA
Make as many as you can until the anchovies run out.
Scout the cheese section of the grocery for a ball of mozzarella. Place cheese in the freezer for 15 minutes before slicing thinly. These taste best when hot.
Thinly sliced, fresh mozzarella, check 4 to 8 slices of dense-textured bread, crusts removed, 2 slices per full sandwich (If cut into small triangles or rounds, the recipe can yield 2 to 4 bite-size sandwiches per 2 slices of bread.)
2 to 3 eggs, beaten with 1/2 teaspoon water per egg
Flour seasoned with salt and pepper
Olive oil, 100%, not extra-virgin
Anchovies (from a jar) and/or salted capers, rinsed
Put egg wash in a bowl, seasoned flour in another
Cut cheese to fit between 2 slices of bread. Tuck an anchovy and/or caper or two in the center of each sandwich.
Dip sandwiches in egg mixture. Dust was seasoned flour.
Heat olive oil in a deep skillet over medium heat. Add sandwiches and cook until golden.
Remove from skillet (using a slotted spoon); place on paper towels to drain. Keep on a warm sheet pan in a 200F oven until all are cooked.
LEMON CHICKEN WITH ANCHOVIES & CAPERS
4 servings
1¼ pounds boneless, skinless chicken thighs, about 4 to 5
1 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1 garlic clove, minded
2 garlic cloves, smashed and peeled
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
5 (or more, to taste) anchovy fillets
2 tablespoons drained capers, patted dry
1 large pinch red pepper flakes
Juice and rind of 1 lemon, cut in half
Fresh chopped parsley, for serving
Heat oven to 350 degrees. Season chicken with salt and pepper; set aside.
Warm oil in an ovenproof skillet over medium-high heat. Add garlic, anchovies, capers and pepper flakes. Cook, stirring, 3 to 5 minutes, until anchovies dissolve. Discard garlic when it turns lightly golden.
Add chicken to the skillet. Brown on one side, about 7 minutes. Turn chicken over. Place the pan in the oven for 10 minutes.
Using potholders, return skillet to stovetop; remove chicken; add ½ lemon (juice and rind). Cook on medium high, scraping browned bits from the bottom of the pan.
Return chicken to the pan to heat. Discard lemon rind.
Transfer to a serving platter. Squeeze the second lemon half over the chicken; shower with the chopped parsley.
Linda Bassett lived in Marblehead for years and has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.
