The quiet lull between New Year’s Eve and Super Bowl can be the most relaxing time of year. Especially with just a dash of snow if you’re a skier or a reader. Still, I miss the sunshine of fresh tomatoes.
While the canned version provides a hearty substitute for long-simmered sauces and thick soups, I constantly search the produce section for something red and shiny. Cherry tomatoes. These little gems provide a flash of flavor. In hit-or-miss shopping expeditions, I try each shape — some perfectly round, others oval or pear-shaped. Some turn out sweet and full-bodied, others pale and watery. When I find a good one, I buy with gusto. (This might require a return to the market the same day. To get the good ones before they sell out.)
Beyond welcoming them to salads, I stretch their use. Toss them in a skillet, all naked from the package, to heighten flavor, and sauté over high heat until they burst, heightening the flavor. I shower them, sparingly, with full-bodied (extra-virgin) olive oil, sea salt and pepper. When all is right, I’m tempted to dip crusty bread into the whole batch for dinner, right out of the skillet. In a more civilized mood, I slice a loaf of French bread into rounds, toast lightly in the oven and spoon the tomatoes over it, then a few snipped chives.
I often toss the whole batch of tomatoes with spaghetti and tear some basil leaves over the top. There’s no wrong way to do this — even mistakes taste good.
With a tiny spritz of good balsamic vinegar added to the mix, I spread it over purchased pizza dough, add handfuls of shredded mozzarella, fresh oregano sprigs and a sprinkle of olive oil (100% this time). Pop it into a 425-degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes. Family fare in front of the roaring fire with a board game.
I take those same sauteed cherry tomatoes (minus balsamic vinegar, above) and simmer with chicken or vegetable stock, half a red onion and a jar of roasted red peppers, drained. Maybe a clove of garlic. When the veggies are soft when pierced with a fork, and in the same pot, I take a stick blender to the mixture until smooth and creamy. Lacking an easy-to-clean stick blender, a cook might whirl the ingredients in a food processor. Maybe stir in a little milk, cream or half-and-half. Or skip the cream and dollop the bowl with sour cream or plain yogurt, and a shower of snipped fresh chives. The results: a creamy winter soup without a strict recipe.
To go restaurant-style, I sliver marinated black olives (see recipe) into the sauteed tomatoes. Heat through and sprinkle with torn fresh basil or chopped parsley, and a few red pepper flakes. Once slightly thickened I use it to sauce a piece of seared salmon.
Another option is a thick vegetable stew packed with white beans and potato cubes. Stir in a warm twist of cumin and paprika to introduce new flavor combinations. Baby spinach added toward the end of cooking fills out the green vegetable category.
For a sophisticated meal, use the cherry tomatoes in a wine-y chicken dish. Chicken thighs stay moist, cooking up without fuss. Sauteed cherry tomatoes the powerful extra dimension.
CHERRY TOMATO-VEGETABLE SOUP
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
This recipe is somewhat freeform, depending on spice mixture and choice of green or white beans. Change it up with a half cup of frozen mixed vegetables. The spice mix gives it character.
—1 sweet onion, chopped
—1 large carrot, peeled and chopped
—2 ribs celery, chopped
—1 clove garlic, minced (optional)
—2 cups potatoes, cut in small cubes
—salt, pepper
—Dashes of cumin, paprika and red pepper flakes, to taste
—5 cups water
—1 cup chopped green beans or a small can white beans (cannellini or navy)
—1 container cherry tomatoes, roasted or sauteed
Sprinkle mix: paprika, chopped parsley
— Warm 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a stockpot. Sauté the onion, carrot, celery and garlic until softened, about 5 minutes on medium-low heat.
— Add potatoes, salt, pepper, spices. Cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.
— Add the green beans; simmer 20 minutes.
— Stir in cherry tomatoes and simmer 15-20 minutes.
— Sprinkle mix the top and stir lightly.
BRAISED CHICKEN WITH CHERRY TOMATOES
Makes 4 servings.
Based on long-simmering French casseroles, this quick version is friendlier to a busy home cook.
—1⁄2 stick unsalted butter
—3 strips lean bacon, diced
—12 pearl onions (frozen is fine)
—4 pounds chicken thighs, skin on, bone in
—1 clove garlic
—5 cups sauteed or roasted cherry tomatoes
—1-1/2 to 2 cups full-bodied dry red wine
—2 tablespoons flour
Melt the butter in a flameproof casserole with a lid. Saute the bacon and pear onions together until the onions are translucent. Take the bacon and onion out of the pan and set aside.
— Sauté the chicken pieces, turning several times until golden. Add the chopped garlic. Cover and cook for 20 minutes. Remove the cover and skim fat if necessary.
— Add cherry tomatoes and wine.
— Cover and cook for 20 minutes until the chicken is completely cooked — no pink juices.
— Serve with hot crusty bread and a crisp green salad.
MARINATED OLIVES
An improvement on deli olives, this makes as much as the cook wishes.
—1 small tub of deli olives, black with pits removed
—Really good quality olive oil. Seek out the best brands.
—A few drops of best quality balsamic vinegar
—Juice and zest of 1⁄2 lemon and/or orange
—Red pepper flakes
—Dried oregano
— Rinse olives in a colander. Roll them over paper towels to remove water. (This is important.)
— Whisk together all other ingredients in a bowl.
— Stir olives into the marinade. Store in a tightly covered container overnight, up to a month.
Marblehead resident Linda Bassett has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.
