Eggs have been in the headlines for months. When something becomes rare or costly, it forces a closer look. Similar to Marblehead’s ups and downs of lobster.
To better understand eggs, first read the box. Lots of verbiage. Some significant, some meaningless, some misleading. Here are a few translations and definitions.
“Natural” means nothing. Eggs are always naturally manufactured by chickens.
“Cage free” eggs start with hens not confined to cages. But, were they allowed outside the barn?
“Free range” birds are allowed to roam. Indoors or outdoors?
“Organic” eggs are produced by chickens that are free to roam and dine on a diet free of hormones or antibiotics.
“Pastured” (not pasteurized) hens have outdoor access to forage for insects and grass. Their eggs are healthy, tasty and sometimes difficult to find.
“Large” eggs are the standard size used in most recipes.
“Extra-large” eggs are bigger, perfect for family breakfasts. Their size can throw off the ratio in exacting recipes for baked goods.
We all know scrambled, poached, fried, hard and soft boiled eggs. Sometimes we step up the game to produce an omelet, a frittata or a souffle.
But the current climate calls for something truly extraordinary, something over the top that invites a bubbly drink. A cork is popped. A cap is pried. Scrambled eggs embellished with caviar suit midnight champagne suppers. Sausage-wrapped Scotch eggs wash down nicely with a pint while streaming futbol or an episode of “Ted Lasso.”
CHEF-STYLE SCRAMBLED EGGS
Makes two servings.
The trick to producing these voluptuously creamy-textured eggs is non-stop whisking. Unlike the eggs at your local breakfast spot, these elegant eggs are, optionally, dolloped and dotted — with whipped cream and caviar. Pop the champagne!
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, divided
Cayenne pepper, barely a whisper
Coarse sea salt, to taste
Whipped cream and caviar, optional
— Combine eggs and 1 1/2 tablespoons butter in a small saucepan. Season lightly with cayenne. Place the saucepan over medium-low heat. Cook, very gently whisking, until eggs are thickened and creamy, about three to four minutes.
— If the mixture begins to stick to the pan, take it off the heat and whisk gently for 30 seconds. Put it back on a low setting and continue cooking.
— Remove the pan from the heat.
— Gently whisk in remaining 1/2 tablespoon butter until it melts. Season with salt.
SCOTCH EGGS
Makes eight.
Use medium sized eggs for this. Hard boil, shell and refrigerate them a day ahead.
3 tablespoons flour
1 pound sausage meat
1 1/2 cups fine breadcrumbs
1/2 tablespoon ground sage
Ground black pepper, to taste
2 lightly beaten eggs
8 medium hard-boiled eggs, shelled
Vegetable oil, for deep frying
— Put flour in a shallow bowl. Divide sausage meat into eight pieces. Season bread crumbs with dried sage and black pepper.
— Put beaten eggs and breadcrumbs into two separate shallow bowls.
— Roll the cooked eggs in flour to coat. Flatten each piece of sausage meat. Place an egg in the center and press the meat to cover the egg.
— Dip the sausage-covered egg into beaten eggs, then roll in breadcrumbs.
— Pour oil 1 inch in a skillet, and heat. Slip coated eggs into the pan without crowding. Fry until golden, not browned on all sides. Remove and pat off excess oil with paper towels.
Linda Bassett lived in Marblehead for years and has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.
Linda Bassett
Marblehead resident Linda Bassett has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.
