Salmon fillets: Many days, many ways

Salmon fillets are one of my go-to meals when I’m fresh out of ideas, in a rush, or too exhausted to put together a big meal on a weeknight. I buy frozen (not farmed) wild salmon — several fillets to the package to keep for these culinary brain-freeze nights. Then all I have to do is pull as many pieces as I want out of the freezer, and look in the pantry for a
way to enhance them.

I can play with mustard, mayo, hot sauce, lemon or lime juice from the refrigerator door. Or I can mine the produce for herbs from dill to cilantro to parsley and more. Then I just need a side or two. Fresh veggies, potatoes or rice or pasta, each enhanced just a tad to go with the fish.

No matter the time of year, my favorite method is grilling. But I will pan fry or bake when rain stops me from grilling. I keep my grill ready to use year-round! The fun starts with a marinade. Fish marinates quickly, so no more than an hour soaking covered, in the fridge. The fat — usually oil — is first. Brush a grill with oil before heating, then baste as it cooks.

To cook on the stove, heat a skillet, then add oil to film the bottom. Use medium heat because salmon cooks quickly and burns easily.

In the oven, the oil goes down on the sheet pan, and is drizzled over the top of the fish. Outside the oven, cook the skinless side first, then turn it. This is the side that will “look at you” on the plate, the presentation side, so you want a perfect finish. Resist the temptation to move the fish as it cooks. It will pull away from the pan when cooked. Turn it too quickly and it will stick.In the oven, no turning is necessary. Place the salmon skin-side-down on a foil-lined sheet pan. When cooked, once more on medium heat, clean-up is a snap.

PAN-SEARED SALMON WITH ASIAN FLAVORS
Makes 4 servings.

This one self-marinates as it cooks. The miso, white rice wine vinegar, and toasted sesame oil are in the international aisle of the supermarket with the soy sauce.

  • 4 skin-on salmon fillets, about 1-inch thick
  • Coarse salt, fresh ground black pepper
  • 4 teaspoons maple syrup
  • 1 tablespoon white or brown miso
  • 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar
  • 2 teaspoons soy sauce
  • 1 garlic clove, finely grated
  • 2 tablespoons neutral oil, e.g. vegetable, canola, or light olive oil
  • Pinch of red-pepper flakes (optional)
  • 1⁄4 teaspoon toasted sesame oil (optional)
  • 1⁄4 cup roughly chopped cilantro, leaves and tender stems
  • Flaky sea salt, to sprinkle over the top at the end of cooking.
  • 1 lemon or lime, cut in wedges for serving

Heat oven to 350-375F degrees. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper or foil. Season the salmon fillets with salt and pepper. Set aside in a shallow bowl large enough to hold the fillets in one layer. In a separate small bowl, whisk together the maple syrup, miso, rice wine vinegar, soy sauce and garlic. Pour the mixture on top of the salmon and turn the fish in the marinade to be sure it is coated. Marinate, just short of 10 minutes. Place the salmon skin side down on the sheet pan. Bake until opaque,
about 12 minutes. Scatter with cilantro and spritz with lime juice. Season with flaky sea salt.

Linda Bassett lived in Marblehead for years and has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.

By Saoirse Stallings

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