Does the kitchen offer anything more comfortable than a potato? Baked. Mashed. Roasted. Or layered in a casserole. Even fat steak fries offer interior tenderness after the first salty crunch. In summer we want our spuds cold and laced with mayo. But cool weather potatoes, in all their permutations, offer kindness against raging winds — and other insults of life. Especially nestled up to a fat juicy steak or Grandma’s meatloaf. They love a blanket of gravy, a pat of melting butter, a dollop of sour cream. They aren’t everyday fare, but those “enhanced” potatoes are worth the wait.
Potatoes always seem like a lot of work. Busy home cooks are tempted to settle for a box of potato flakes. But what of potatoes in soup? Thick and smooth, or lumpy and textured. What of potato wedges, their edges slightly charred, alongside roasted meats? Time and work?
Potatoes don’t need to be all work. Choosing the largest potatoes possible lowers the number that need peeling for many recipes. Both thick-skinned russets and thin-skinned yellow potatoes achieve gargantuan sizes. Idaho-grown russets with thick skin are perfect bakers. (At the market, all Idahos are russets; not all russets are Idahos.) The thin-skinned potatoes labeled Yukon Gold don’t turn out a good classic baked potato, often don’t require peeling. They lend a nice buttery hue to the finished dish. Both need a quick scrub before using.
A simple baked potato is easiest on the cook. Scrub the exterior and pierce the skin a few times so that the steam escapes through the holes in the oven. Place them, all naked like that, on the rack of a 400 degree Fahrenheit oven for about an hour. Forget all the hocus-pocus about rubbing with oil or wrapping in foil. It doesn’t improve a potato. Slice the cooked potatoes open across the top, squeezing the sides gently to volcano all that fluffy goodness to the top.
To make a somewhat virtuous baked potato, drizzle on some extra-virgin olive oil (in place of butter); salt and pepper to taste. The steam of the potato brings out the oil’s fruity flavor. Less fat; fewer calories. Great flavor.
I recently ran across some deadly decadent “loaded mashed potatoes” on a restaurant menu. This pull-out-all-the-stops spud is a combination of creamy, buttery mashed with the “loaded” baked version. It does require work. First, make the mashed potatoes. While keeping them warm, covered, in the oven, fry up some bacon. Drain on paper towels and keep that warm too. Then, slice the green part of a few scallions crosswise. Finally, use a carrot peeler to slice several strips from a wedge of cheddar. Dollop the warm potatoes with sour cream, and generously scatter the bacon, cheese and scallions.
Eating this daily or even weekly would be a mistake, but keep in mind part of author Nora Ephron’s ode to potatoes. “I have made a lot of mistakes … and regretted most of them, but never the potatoes that went with them.”
POTATO AND MUSHROOM SOUP
Makes 6 servings.
Any type of mushroom works in this soup, but a mixture of different types adds a wider dimension of flavor. Any combination of button, shiitake, porcini and portobello make a good mix. For further depth, soak dried mushrooms in hot stock, white wine or hot water until soft. Then chop the mushrooms finely and add to the pot. Strain the soaking liquid and add that, too.
Garnish with fresh dill near the end of cooking, so it doesn’t fade. If fresh is not available, chop dried dill into some parsley to freshen the flavor.
2 tablespoons butter
2 tablespoons 100% olive oil (not extra-virgin)
1 1/2 pounds fresh mushrooms, chopped
1/2 cup chopped sweet onions
6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
8 small thin-skinned potatoes (e.g. Yukon Gold), roughly cubed
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
1/2 cup sour cream
1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
Salt and pepper
Thinly sliced green scallion and fresh dill, for garnish
— Melt butter and the olive oil in a heavy soup pot over medium heat. Add the mushrooms and onions, stirring until they are coated with butter. Reduce the heat to low and simmer gently, partly covered, for 20 minutes.
— Add the stock and potatoes to the pot. Bring the mixture to a boil. Reduce the heat to low. Partially cover again and simmer 20 minutes longer. The potatoes should be very tender.
— Add the scallions, parsley and dill. Continue cooking over low heat for another 10 minutes.
— Take 1/2 cup of the soup out of the pot. Whisk it in a small bowl with the sour cream. Stir this back into the pot until everything is heated.
— Ladle the soup bowls and sprinkle them with thinly sliced scallions and chopped fresh dill.
ROASTED POTATO WEDGES
Makes 6 servings.
This is equally good with Idaho or Yukon Gold potatoes.
Cut into wedges and spread them on a layer of paper towels, then cover with another layer of paper towels, pressing on them gently to dry.
6 medium large potatoes, cut into 6 large wedges
2 tablespoons olive oil (not extra virgin)
1 tablespoon melted butter
1 teaspoon paprika (optional)
Salt, and black pepper
— Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit. Line a baking sheet with aluminum foil, dull side up.
— Add the dried potato wedges to a large bowl. Drizzle with olive oil and melted butter.
— Line a heavy sheet pan with aluminum foil, dull side up. Spread out the potatoes, draining any extra oil and butter onto the pan. Bake for 20 minutes. Take the pan out of the oven and turn the potato wedges with a heatproof spatula. Put them back in the oven for 15 minutes longer. If they are ready, they will be browned and easily pierced with the tip of a knife. Otherwise, put them back into the oven for 10 minutes longer until ready. Season with salt, pepper and paprika.
