By Linda Basset
Deep in winter, we snuggle in to keep safe from storms and wind and flu symptoms. Fireplace, candles, wool blankets, thick books, soft flannel pajamas. A pot of bone broth on the stove.
CURRENT PHOTO / LINDA BASSETT
A recent phenomenon, bone broth is the next step in the evolution of stock: meaty bones simmered with fresh herbs and vegetables, bolstered with a shot of that “fifth flavor” element umami, to cheer it on. Simmering time is key to extract collagen, vitamins, minerals and richness from those bones. A 3-to-4 hours simmer yields a good basic stock. Bubble those same ingredients twice as long, say 8 hours and you get the “souped-up” version. (Not overnight, but while snuggling with the earlier noted elements.)
The concept is old. During the Middle Ages, leftover meat, bones and vegetables were tossed into a common pot that stewed for days over the hearth. It kept a house warm and a family fed. Centuries later, thrifty grandmothers bubbled up “stovetop penicillin” for colds and flu. (Steam rising from the bowl cleared breathing passages.)
Each element in bone broth adds dimension, character. Start with bones. A lot. Three to five pounds, hoarded in the freezer. Add them to a pot of water. Sweeten with hearty, woody, stalk-y vegetables — onions, carrots, celery, leeks, shallots. Consider fennel, lemongrass, garlic, parsnips. (Never turnip.) Choose each carefully keeping in mind that the combination determines the final essence.
Roast bones and aromatic vegetables first — optional, but always an improvement — to warm the flavor and color. Add favorite herbs. Always fresh flat-leaf parsley. Bay leaves, thyme, rosemary or sage. Fresh herbs are pricey in winter; dried are more powerful so use less. In the end, 2-3 tablespoons of umami — citrus, cider vinegar, tomato paste, dried mushrooms, anchovies, fish or soy sauce — pick one — gives it the finish it deserves.
When cooled, fat rises to the top, begging to be scraped off to reveal the beautiful gel that testifies to its goodness.
Strain and cool. The rich broth is a perfect base for soups, sauces, and stews. Even lovelier to sip from a mug, fireside.
CHICKEN OR BEEF BONE BROTH
Makes about 2 quarts.
3-5 pounds bones, chicken or beef (with some meat)
2-3 bay leaves and/or other herbs
Sea salt, whole black peppercorns
2 pounds carrots, celery, garlic and onion, etc. roughly chopped
2 tablespoons cider vinegar, lemon juice, etc.
Preheat oven to 400F degrees.
Put bones and aromatics — carrots, celery, onion — on sheet pans; drizzle with olive oil to prevent burning. Toss to coat.
Roast in a 400F oven for 30 to 45 minutes, stirring once or twice during the cooking, until browned, not charred. Vegetables will brown before bones, so separate sheet pans might be a good idea.
Transfer roasted bones and vegetables to a 6-quart stock pot. Add salt and peppercorns. Pour enough water to cover.
Bring the pot to a boil. Turn heat down to low. Cover the pot partially, and simmer gently — low, slow-breaking bubbles — for 8 to10 hours. Add more water as needed to keep ingredients submerged. (Cooking can be stopped and the mixture cooled to room temperature before refrigerating overnight to continue cooking the following day.) Stir in citrus juice, cider vinegar, etc.
Strain broth through a fine-mesh colander to remove all particles. Refrigerate for 2 to 3 days; freeze up to 2 months.
