If one vegetable could be voted “most likely to be disliked” by the largest number of people, I would guess Brussels sprouts. Broccoli follows at a close second. But wait! Give the scorned tiny cabbage-lookalikes another chance. They need coddling — and not like an egg because then you’ll get sulfurous payback. When treated gently, they react positively.
Let’s start with their backstory. In season right now, Brussels sprouts stay around through March, although presently at their best. Buy them from a grocer who does not wrap them in plastic. Look for net bags or loose “sprouts” in a bin. They need to breathe.
When home, refrigerate them, unwashed and uncovered, in a non-metal bowl. No longer than three days: aging Brussels sprouts go downhill fast.
To prepare, rinse well in a colander under cold running water. Then cut a thin slice from the stem. Peel and discard a layer or two of outer leaves. Cut an X into the stem so they cook evenly through. (Some cooks cut them in half vertically.)
To cook, bypass the tried and truly horrible techniques — boiled and doused with butter; braised in stock; steamed and spritzed with lemon juice. Overlook trendy methods, too, like roasting at high temperatures under squirts of expensive vinegar. These methods just serve to enhance the vegetable’s nasty reputation.
Instead, coddle them with cream, bacon, breadcrumbs, butter and cheeses. (Classical French chefs know that these ingredients improve most anything.) Just layer on the voluptuous flavors. Yes, the calories add up, but I’m not suggesting this appear frequently on your table. Save it for the holidays.
I try out one new recipe every holiday season. My holiday brussels sprouts gratin stayed permanently on the menu. A brined roasted capon has not been seen a second time. The kids like it well enough that they prepare it for potlucks with friends. In a recent phone call, my daughter told me her secret: she doubles all the truly shocking elements — bacon, butter, cheese, etc!
GRATIN OF BRUSSELS SPROUTS
Makes 6 servings.
The best part of this dish is that it’s better the next day, a great candidate for saving work on the actual holiday.
- 1-¼ pounds brussels sprouts
- 1 tablespoon lemon juice
- ¾ pound bacon, cut into 1-inch pieces
- 8 ounces cream cheese
- 1 stick unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon Dijon-style mustard
- ½ cup all-purpose cream
- Pinch nutmeg
- Salt and pepper, to taste
- ¼ cup grated Parmesan or Swiss cheese, or a combination
- ¼ cup fresh breadcrumbs
- More melted butter to drizzle over the crumbs
1. Cut a thin slice from the stem; remove outer leaves. Rinse under cold running water.
2. Preheat the oven to 400F. Fry bacon until nearly crisp; drain on paper towels.
3. Melt butter with cream cheese over low heat. Stir in mustard and cream.
4. Butter a baking dish deep enough to fit all ingredients in a single layer.
5. In a large bowl, toss together the brussels sprouts, cream cheese mixture, and bacon until combined. Transfer to the baking dish. Add more cream so that the sprouts are nearly covered. Top with the grated cheeses and breadcrumbs.
6. Bake for 30 minutes, until the casserole is bubbling and golden on top. Serve hot.
Linda Bassett lived in Marblehead for years and has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.
Linda Bassett
Marblehead resident Linda Bassett has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.
