Last week, I sampled the tastes of Thailand, India, Singapore and Japan. I inhaled the scents of garlic, Thai basil, cilantro, coconut milk and curry.
On Aquidneck Island near Newport, Rhode Island. With cooks who learned the mystique of Asian flavors during their many travels.
When I cook, I typically default to familiar Mediterranean, Caribbean and American recipes. These are the foods baked into my bones, my psyche. My pantry is packed with items that support those genres. A weeklong break from these ingredients and techniques took me out of my comfort zone. I discovered new ways to flavor squash and elevate a plain egg salad. A 9-year-old taught me to roll sushi. I tempered broccoli’s bitterness with coconut milk. I learned, despite its umami (savoriness) qualities, it is advisable to steer clear of open bottles of fish sauce.
Once home, I foraged specialty shops for rice wine vinegar, curry powder and tamari. The supermarket’s international shelves are another treasure trove.
Curries ease a cook into a culinary tour of Asia, whether a creamy soup or a dinner main course; or egg salad meant to be wrapped in lettuce leaves but equally good stuffed into a pita. Peanuts and coconut and hot pepper flakes add unique dimensions to soup and spark previously bland chicken with rice. I’ve adapted each one from busy cooks using mixed curry powders, pre-cut and peeled hard squash and frozen veggies to save time on a workday.
Winter squash and curry soup
It’s worth the extra cost to buy the precut butternut squash. If the pieces are too large, cut them in half or increase cooking time.
If you can find tiny Thai basil at the supermarket, it adds extra scent when scattered over the top of the hot soup.
¼ cup canola oil
2 medium shallots or 1 yellow onion, diced
2-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
4 lbs. butternut squash, peeled, seeded, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 (13-oz.) cans coconut milk
6 tbsp. Thai green curry paste
2 to 3 tbsp. fish sauce
3½ cups chicken stock
Salt, to taste
¾ cup unsalted roasted peanuts
¾ cup coconut flakes, unsweetened
Red pepper flakes, to taste
1 tbsp. canola oil
½ tsp. sugar
3 limes, quartered
Thai basil leaves, optional
— Heat oven to 300 F.
— Heat oil in a large heavy pot over medium heat. Add onion or shallot, ginger and pinch of salt. Cook, stirring until onions are wilted golden.
— Add squash, coconut milk, curry paste, fish sauce and 3 cups of stock. Raise heat and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Cook, covered, until squash is tender when pierced with a fork, 20 to 30 minutes.
— Toss together peanuts, coconut flakes, fish sauce and pepper flakes. Spread mixture on a baking sheet and cook in a preheated oven, 15 to 20 minutes, stirring every 5 minutes until coconut is browned. Pour mixture into a bowl and squeeze juice of one lime over it.
— Take soup off heat and puree with a hand (stick) blender. If too thick, add more stock until desired consistency. Ladle into bowls and scatter coconut mixture over top. Serve with lime wedges.
Curried chicken and peanuts
Basmati rice sticks together (Read package directions.) If unavailable, American long grain rice will work.
¼ cup canola oil
½ cup diced red onion
1½ tbsp. mild curry powder
Salt, pepper
1 lb. boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into 2-inch pieces
1½ cups frozen mixed vegetables (carrots, peas, corn)
1 cup cooked basmati rice
⅓ cup chopped fresh cilantro
2 tbsp. sliced scallions (white part)
¾ cup dry-roasted salted cashews
— In a nonstick deep skillet over medium heat, add oil and onion. Cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, until onions are soft and translucent.
— Add curry powder, salt and pepper. Add chicken, stirring until cooked through, 5 to 6 minutes. Add frozen vegetables. Cook, stirring, 2 to 3 minutes.
— Stir in cooked rice, making sure oil and spices coat it. Keep stirring until rice heats through, about 4 minutes.
— Shower cilantro, scallions and cashews over top, and toss lightly before serving.
Curried egg salad
8 hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped
⅓ cup mayonnaise
1½ tsp. fresh squeezed lemon or lime juice
2 tsp. curry powder
½ tsp. sugar
½ tsp. dry mustard
½ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. fresh ground black pepper
2 tbsp. chopped scallions
2 tbsp. minced fresh parsley or cilantro
Large soft lettuce leaves, for wrapping
— In a large bowl, combine chopped hard-boiled eggs with mayo, lemon, curry powder, sugar, mustard, salt, pepper and tabasco.
— Add scallions and toss gently. Cover and chill for 30 minutes to let flavors mingle. Scoop onto lettuce leaves, into pitas or onto sandwich bread.
Linda Bassett lived in Marblehead for years and has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.
