During this summer’s wanderings, I felt the urge to taste vichyssoise on its home turf. Yes, despite the French name, the cold potato soup was born in the USA. In New York City. The brainchild of a French immigrant chef, and a classic on menus for over 100 years.
Louis Diat, started chef’s training as a teenager. A strong work ethic — and an equal amount of talent — brought him to the Ritz in Paris, then to London, starting as a potager, soup maker.
When the new Ritz-Carlton hotel opened in Manhattan at the height of the Gilded Age, Louis immigrated to head up its kitchen.
In 1917, the hotel opened a rooftop garden restaurant. A new concept: outdoor dining, above the noise of summer in the city. The menu needed something catchy. Louis turned to his mother for inspiration. Her rib-sticking potato-leek potage filled many a belly on cold winter nights. He shook it up, pureeing it with cream, refining the texture. Then, he put it on ice. Literally.
The soup became more than a novelty. Heralded a classic soon after its first season, diners still spoon it up today in garden restaurants in and out of New York City.
The stick blender makes it easier to produce than when it was invented. No more strainers, blades, food processors or endless bowls to scrub. After simmering the potatoes, process it right in the pot. Once done, it chills overnight in the fridge.
To start, a cook needs a good potato. Cooks often disagree — about techniques, seasonings and ingredients. Here: the potato matters.
Russets have long been the favorite. (Note: The best grow in Idaho where soil and climate are ideal.) High starch content helps them break down smoothly. Along came Yukon golds. Thin-skinned and butter-colored, they produce a fine-textured, pale gold soup. Less starchy than their Idaho cousins. Either one can produce a glue-like consistency. The trick is to make sure to cook the potatoes until they start to break down, then puree for a shorter time.
Chicken or vegetable stock keeps the color light without overwhelming the potato flavor. A few cooks feel that only spring water will do.
Classically, the soup serves up “white on white” —white soup in white bowls. A few fresh chives snipped over the top the only hint of color. It looks just as good in a brightly-colored bowl.
Once winter sets in, skip the cream and chilling. Serve it hot, thick and lumpy, as potage parmentier, its French forerunner.
CLASSIC VICHYSSOISE
Makes 4 to 6 servings.
I choose ingredients regardless of national origin — Irish butter, American vidalia onions (add sweetness), and French sea salt, all available at the supermarket.
Snip chives at the last minute. A few (untraditional) mint leaves cool it further.
4 tablespoons butter
2-3 leeks (white and palest green parts only), cleaned and very thinly sliced
1 medium onion, chopped
2 pounds potatoes (Idaho russet or Yukon gold), peeled, cut into 2-inch cubes
4 to 6 cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 teaspoon Maldon salt, to taste
1 cup heavy cream (or light cream or half-and-half)
Finely snipped fresh chives
Melt butter in a large, heavy pot on medium heat. Add leeks and onion. Cook very gently, stirring, for 5 to 7 minutes, until softened. Do not let veggies brown.
Add potatoes, salt and broth. Bring to a boil; reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and simmer gently, for 30 to 40 minutes, until potatoes are falling-apart tender.
Cool,10 minutes. Puree with an immersion (stick) blender until smooth.
Stir in cream; cool to room temperature. Cover and refrigerate for 4 to 8 hours.
Taste for salt. Ladle into bowls; garnish with fresh snipped chives.
Linda Bassett lived in Marblehead for years and has worked as a cook, trained up-and-coming chefs, studied food history and led food tours. Her book, “From Apple Pie to Pad Thai,” is about local cooks and cooking.
