It seems that no matter where I roam, I discover new flavors, or new ways of combining old ones. New techniques or a revival of a centuries-old method. Often unexpected, often surprising. This summer, a salad dressing in Cooperstown, New York; a surprising Milwaukee pizza; a twist on a beverage at a Southern bar; Irish sausage, cheese and butter; and a classic cold potato soup in Manhattan.
So, as summer shifts toward autumn, I am cataloguing them here as I riff on their flavors in my kitchen playroom, starting with …
Dublin coddle — a traditional Saturday night supper in that city, a pen pal of New England baked beans — is a dish that cooks and holds for a while. On this side of the pond, it also works well as a Sunday brunch. It keeps warm in the oven and makes friends with eggs cooked any style.
Sausage is the starring ingredient here, one that is less fatty than the familiar Polish kielbasa, Spanish or Portuguese chorizo, Greek loukaniko, Italian hot or sweet, or New Orleans andouille. (There are hundreds more that I can’t begin to name.) Irish sausage a.k.a. black or white “pudding” or English “bangers” use oatmeal as a filler. They are available at specialty butcher shops. Substitute a plain breakfast sausage, one without the maple flavorings.
I auditioned the classic, then I fiddled with it until transformed, but with its ancestry still recognizable.
DUBLIN CODDLE
Makes 4 servings.
This traditional Irish recipe uses a casserole with a tight-fitting lid so the vegetables steam and tenderize and the flavors mingle. It is more essential than my translation.
6 slices bacon or ham
1 pound mild pork sausages
2 pounds Idaho potatoes, peeled and thinly sliced
1 large white or yellow onion, peeled and sliced thinly
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
Salt, pepper
Cut bacon or ham into four pieces each. Pierce sausages all over with a fork. Put the meats in a pot; cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer, 5 minutes. Take the meats from the pot with tongs; drain on paper towels.
Reserve the cooking liquid.
Preheat the oven to 250F. Put the meats in the bottom of the casserole. Arrange potatoes and onions on top of the meats. Sprinkle with parsley, salt and pepper. Add just enough of the reserved cooking liquid to cover.
Cover the casserole. Bake for 1 to 1-1/2 hours. The liquid will reduce and vegetables should be tender when pierced with a fork.
For my updated version, I flipped the potatoes from sliced to mashed stirring in dollops of Irish butter (Kerry Gold) and cheddar cheese (an Irish brand is ideal) shredded from a block, using a vegetable peeler. If a cook prefers pre-shredded cheddar, a mild one melts more evenly than sharp.
I brown the sausages, then slice them diagonally, about ½-to ¾-inch thick. Then I layer all the goodies into a casserole, mashed potatoes first, topped with the sausage. I finish it all in a 350 oven for about 30 to 40 minutes and take it out when the top is golden brown.
I bring it into this century topping the whole thing with a big handful of fresh greens. I like pea shoots tossed with a teaspoon of vinaigrette, barely enough to lightly coat them — freshly ground black pepper, and a sprinkle of flaky sea salt (Maldon).
Breakfast, brunch or supper, this is a great make-ahead for a busy family.
